Gay Valparaiso, Chile

Chilean Queer bohemia at it's finest

Ben in a colorful stairway in Cerro Mariposa (Credit: Author)

Valparaiso is best experienced by wandering through its maze-like streets and mural-filled staircases which cover its forty-five hilly neighborhoods. Also known as Cerros, these areas can be accessed by the city’s twenty-two historic funiculars which carry riders up to ornate plazas with sweeping views of the bay, quirky cafes tucked into colorful colonial buildings, and music-filled streets. The neighborhoods are accessible by foot but get ready for a workout.

The Abuela of Valpo and the Cerro Cordillera staircase (Credit: Author)

Valparaiso’s( or Valpo as locals call it) most visited Cerros are by far Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion and can be reached by the funiculars Ascensor Reina Victoria or Ascensor Concepcion. Besides the ample art galleries, quaint bakeries, charming cafes, and endearing restaurants within the neighborhood, the Dissidents Cemetery’s ornate mausoleum-style graves function as a haunting park with breathtaking views. Just down the street, Acensor El Peral delivers patrons to the Baburizza Palace and Museo Bellas Artes. The former home of an eccentric Croatian businessman now turned Art-Nouveau museum showcases poignant Chilean modern art. Not to mention, the offbeat promenade is ideal for watching the sunset with a bottle of Carmenere wine. Another frequented neighborhood, Cerro Bellavista, holds the famed Chilean poet’s peculiar third home. Take Ascensor Espíritu Santo and stroll through the open-air street art museum, Cielo Abierto, on your way to La Sebastiana Museo Pablo Neruda.

Architecture of Playa Ancha and the Paseo Yugoslavo

Although, much of the famed magic of this city is wrapped up in its Cerros, “the plan” or the narrow flat area between the hills and the bay has lots to see and experience. Plaza Victoria and Plaza Italia are lively public spaces where you will find locals, especially during the summertime, selling their artisanal wares, drinking chelas (beer) with friends, or practicing the latest dance craze. On Sundays, Plaza O'Higgins is bustling with antique treasures, and the El Cardonal Market is filled with the countryside’s freshest produce. Towards the South, the city’s industrial port contains hole-in-the-wall restaurants serving fresh seafood, the monumental Plaza Sotomayor, and at night some of the city’s best underground nightlife venues.

The Sunday flea market on Calle Argentina and the haunting views at Dissidents Cemetery (Credit: Author)

Nightlife:

Throughout the year Valpo’s nightlife is fueled by Piscola cocktails, messy drag queens, moody dark-wave dance floors, and underground techno parties that go well past dawn. The center of gay nightlife revolves around the hedonistic palace of Pagano. With its two am drag shows and iconic pop-fueled basement, you won’t be disappointed. Pagano’s infamous gay after-hours changes venue frequently, and often requires a password. Make sure to ask around as the bar closes for the night to get the “in”. Mascara’s indie dance music brings a mixed crowd, but they stay for the strong drinks. Salón Bizarre blasts 80’s European Goth while Club Delirio’s divas twirl in a dingy bar next to the port. If you’re up for a banging circuit party full of “muscolocas” (muscle gays) head gayly forward to Club D in Viña del Mar.

Underground dance parties at Alto San Andres (Credit: Alto San Andres)