Thailand’s steamy tropical capital is often overlooked by many travelers as nothing more than a transportation hub to reach the more digestible, less overwhelming, and more scenic destinations such as Phuket, Koh Pha Ngan, and Chang Mai. Yet, Bangkok holds some of the country’s most impressive temples (Wats), modern art museums, outrageous queer nightlife, sensuous spa culture, and a surprisingly affordable foodie scene.
The chaotic city straddles the winding Chao Phraya River and its maze-like network of canals. Narrow long tail boats, water taxis, and private vessels crisscross the waterway to act as a form of public transportation, floating markets, and one of the best ways to experience the city. This disorderly dance is echoed into the city streets where a myriad of zooming scooters seem to take traffic laws as a suggestion. Bangkok does have a modern air-conditioned sky metro that runs throughout the metropolis, but it serves as more of a commuter line than an efficient way to get around the city of 10 million. The neighborhood of Silom is the center of queer life in Bangkok, holds “the anything goes” red light district of Patpong, and is the financial central business district of Bangkok. Buzzy night markets, sizzling street food vendors, raucous nightlife, and glitzy high rises all fill Silom. To the North, Bangkok’s Chinatown fuses Thai and Chinese culture within narrow bustling streets while ornate Watts (Temples) contain Golden Buddhas and picturesque turrets that line the riverfront neighborhood of the Royal City. Outside the main tourist areas, on both sides of the river are a smattering of cultural attractions and less trotted local neighborhoods. The Chang Chui Creative Park hosts anything from vintage clothing & craft markets to raves in a DIY outdoor art park complete under a renovated commercial airplane. Escape the heat in 515Victor’s indoor community garden which features a chic hotel, trendy restaurants, and even a performance venue. The Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA Bangkok) showcases some of South East Asia’s most thought-provoking exhibits and regularly hosts radical queer creators. To the far North, the massive weekend Chatuchak Market has over 15,000 stalls where you can most anything including antique wares and mouth-watering food vendors. The area around the University Ramkhamhaeng has an indie-college vibe while the neighborhood of Ari is known for its quirky coffee shops, middle-class residents, and high-end art galleries.
When it comes to LGBTQ+ rights, Thailand along with Taiwan, are the most progressive countries in Asia with Vietnam trailing close behind. A marriage equality law was recently passed, and gender-reaffirming surgery has been performed in Thailand since 1975. Trans people are common in Thai pop culture and can be seen openly in the streets. Silom is undoubtedly the undisputed gayborhood of Bangkok, and each street has a different flair. Silom Road 4 is where you’ll find numerous gay bars with outdoor seating perfect for people-watching. Cute Thai boys will coerce (sometimes very aggressively) you to dine at their establishment and guzzle giant tanks full of SingHa Beer. Some feature karaoke while others have nightly drag shows. Telephone Pub, The Balcony, Circus Bar, and Connections all line the alley on your way to Stranger Bar which coins itself as “The House of Drag Queens”. Although touristy, it has some of the top drag in the city. If you’re looking for a scruffier crowd look no further than Beef Bear Party on the second floor of BiPolar at Sliver Sands or at HUGS where Bears belt out their favorite tunes. Scattered through Silom are numerous Boy Show Bars where you can experience nightly acts ranging from erotic dance performances to drag spectaculars.
Each performer has a number on their waist and you can buy a drink for your entertainer that may lead to a more intimate encounter. (Pro Tip: entertainer drinks are always 2-3 times more expensive) Each “Boy Bar” has its own flair. Jupiter2018 is known for its sensual shower performances, The One Club (Former Tawan Bar) focuses on muscle guys, and Dreamboy Bangkok, Moonlight, & Hotmale host a cast of twinky go-gos. Around the corner, Silom Road 2 is where to find Bangkok’s megaclubs such DJ station, Rush Bar, and G(GOD Club) where pop ballads, packed sweaty dance floors, and circuit music rule the night. Outside of the excitement of Silom 2 & 4 there are a couple of cozy hole-in-the wall gay bars such as Saladrank, White Rabbi, and the ultra chill stoner friendly Krua Chern Sab. Got an itch you can’t quite figure out, Pulse- Club Back Door is a multi-use space with an art gallery, STI/HIV testing center, and hosts events ranging from after-hours kinky rave to Shibari figure drawing classes. Down the street, Beam Cube takes the form in a ritzy skyline lounge and rave club for audiophiles. They regularly book top international DJs and have a bumpin’ sound system.
Outside of Silom there are more local and less crowded nightlife if you’re looking for a more authentic nightlife option. Calypso is a Thai mainstream institution where over-the-top costumes and an all-trans women cast of cabaret have been performing since 1988 in the Ambassador Hotel theatre south of Silom district. The internationally known and undisputed Queen of Thai Drag, Pagina Heals has her own club called the House of Heals where you can find the fiercest drag shows in town. On the East Side, Fake Club is your go-to boy band/ Thai Chippendales paradise.
If you’re for the girls Lesla night happens throughout the city in different venues and Go Grrls coins itself as a “united queer party” that focuses on ballroom and indie pop music at Corner House Bangkok in Charoenkrung district. If you need a break after the massive Chatuchak Weekend Market Viva 8 serves paella & dance parties while Nineties and Booster beckons guests to sip cocktails under their red illuminated lanterns. Gay bars in the far east next to Ramkhamhaeng Univeristy have a distinctly retro college vibe. Expect mismatched furniture, comfy couches, and live music at Winbarbar 90s or Loft to Bar and pretty boys with flawless skin routines at Sit 2 Sis Restaurant And Club. In the hip Ari neighborhood Perfect Stranger is a sleek cafe by day and a sophisticated cocktail lounge by evening. Live music and a burgeoning queer house/techno scene cross into mixed venues throughout the city such as the hip hop-driven Blaq Lyte Rover, Siwalai Radical Club’s orange creamsicle gastro club birthed from plastic waste, and the hippy DIY hostel The Overstay.
Thai Spa culture is world-renowned and gay bathhouse culture follows suit in Bangkok. Many gay saunas throw parties, serve food/cocktails, have onsite masseuses, and are well-attended by all ages. 39 Underground pulls more of a local crowd, R3 Sauna Mania is right in the heart of Silom with a tantalizing rooftop terrace, and Chakran’s Japense-inspired Onsen has upscale swimming pools, and scenic rooftop views. Faros has a lush expansive property while Divana is the ultimate LGBTQ+-owned luxury spa whose customers are more focused on pampering themselves than cruising. Massage parlors serving a gay male clientele are numerous in the city and usually include a pleasant ending.